Fish stew was introduced to the North Carolina coast by early English settlers. This culinary delight made its way inland all the way to Penders Crossroads. Although we lived a hundred miles from the coast, ocean caught fish was part of our diet. In the 1930’s and 40’s my great grandfather Wiggins made regular trips to Wanchese, Mann’s Harbor, Manteo, Little Washington, Morehead City, Columbia, and also to Jamesville when the herring were running. During the herring season we had fresh herring and in the off- season we enjoyed salted herrings. There was usually a wooden keg in my grandmother’s kitchen packed with salted herrings. These salty fish were soaked in water to get most of the salt out and then fried to a crispy treat and served for breakfast with cornbread and hot coffee. I remember the bushels of oysters in the shell, rock, speckled trout, red snapper and shrimp. He usually got some herring roe and the roe was cooked with eggs and served with grits, biscuits and coffee.
Sometimes Grandpa Wiggins would bring oysters in the shell from the coast and put them in a large wooden tub with water or covered with a moistened burlap bag. The oysters were inside a mesh bag and he would occasionally move the bag around and change the water or add water and tell us the oysters were alive. He kept them for a couple of weeks. Now, I don’t know if they were alive or not. He told us that the oysters would poop in the water and that is why he changed the water and washed their shells before eating them. I don’t remember seeing any movement in that wooden tub. My grandpa told us that the oysters took in water and food in the thick end of the shell and the waste was forced out the thinner side of the shell. I remember looking in the wooden tub at those oysters and trying to see them eat or poop. They must have been some sneaky little guys because I never caught them moving. He would scoop up a pan full of those oysters, take them in the house and use a knife to open the shell. He told us that the oysters were still alive until he cut them loose from the shell, dipped them in butter and a ketchup mixture and ate them. I was the only grandchild who would eat those raw oysters with him. He would open some and make an oyster stew. Oyster stew is still one of my favorites from over eighty years ago.
One of the dishes that most of us got excited about was fish stew. There are several recipes for this dish and all of the ones I have tried are delicious. The most important thing to remember when making fish stew is “do not stir the pot.”
A recipe, in my opinion, is merely a suggestion. Here is my suggestion for fish stew:
2 lbs. of firm white fish (skinless and boneless)
3 lbs. potatoes
2 lbs. sliced onion A few strips of bacon or some olive oil or bacon drippings.
Salt and pepper to taste Chicken stock (optional – you can use water or fish stock)
Add seasonings you like: salt, pepper, Cajun seasoning, thyme, parsley, paprika or your favorite.
Use a medium size stockpot and begin to layer the ingredients:
You can cook the bacon strips in the stockpot or you can use bacon drippings or olive oil to grease the bottom of your pot.
Start with a layer of potatoes.
Then a layer of onion slices.
Next a layer of the fish cut into about 2 or 3 inch pieces.
Season each layer with your choice of spices.
A little butter on each layer is ok and adds flavor.
Repeat the layering of ingredients until you have used all the fish, potatoes and onion.
I like to start with a layer of potatoes and have a layer of potatoes on top.
Next: Add in the chicken stock or water, about three-fourths to the top of the pot. We do not want the ingredients floating in the stock. Some liquid will cook out of the onions and potatoes.
Cover the pot and bring to a simmer. Let it simmer until the potatoes are cooked tender or done.
It is ok to lift the lid and peep but the most important thing to remember is “do not stir the pot.” When the potatoes are cooked through the fish and other ingredients are ready. When the potatoes are finished cooking the liquid in the pot should come almost to top of the ingredients. If needed, it is fine to add liquid while the dish is cooking. If you have leftovers, this dish is even better the next day.
Serve with garlic bread or my favorite, lace cornbread. The broth just calls for cornbread.
There are other fish stew recipes that call for tomatoes and other vegetables.
Some people break eggs on top of the stew and legend has it that this was done when old time fishermen didn’t catch enough fish for the crowd they were feeding. The eggs were available, and they added protein to the dish. Old time fishermen cooked this stew in a large iron pot, much like a wash pot. A stock pot on my stove works great but I can imagine the excitement of building the fire around the big iron pot after a full day of fishing, and having a few spirited drinks as it cooks. Imagine listening to the stories told in colorful language of those fishermen. Except for the open fire and a group of hungry fishermen watching and drinking, this can be done in our kitchens. Start with a glass of wine and a few friends or family. Just a warning: do not pick up a spoon and go near the simmering pot. You may be tackled and have that spoon wrestled away. Fish stew chefs are serious when they say, “Do not stir the pot.” Bon Appetit’.
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